How to Harvest and Store Peas

Peas for harvest
Pea harvest

Harvest green peas when they are young and tender. They will become hard and starchy if left on the vine too long. Green peas are best shelled and cooked within an hour of harvest.

Harvest edible-pod peas when the peas are just beginning to form; when the outline of the pea is just visible in the pod.

Types of Peas

There are three kinds of peas: garden peas, snap peas, and snow peas.

  • Green peas, also called garden peas and English peas or green peas, are the peas you eat without a pod. There are two kinds of green peas—the small-seeded type, also called petit pois, for eating fresh and freezing, and the large-seeded type that is shelled and used as dry peas; large-seeded peas are also called soup peas.
  • Snap peas, sometimes called sugar snap peas, are tender, sweet, and can be eaten pod and all.
  • Snow peas, also called Chinese peas or Asian peas, or sugar peas, also can be eaten pods and all.
snow peas
Harvest edible-pod snow peas while pods are immature and still flat—before the seeds begin to fill out.

When to Harvest Peas

  • Peas will be ready for harvest 55 to 70 days after sowing.
  • Grow peas to maturity in late spring or early summer and in autumn—when temperatures are in the 60°s to 70°sF (15°+–21°+C).  Peas must mature before the weather gets hot.
  • Harvest garden or shelling peas when the pods are fully developed but still bright green. Before picking, taste garden peas for sweetness—taste them every day after the pods have begun to fill. They should be sweet and tender and slightly larger than the dry seed you planted. Don’t wait too long; once garden peas reach maturity they rapidly decline in quality, start to yellow, and become inedible as fresh peas within one to three days.
  • Garden peas picked too soon will lack sweetness. Over mature peas will be starchy and have tough skins. If you wait too long and peas begin to yellow and the pods become tough, leave them to dry on the vine and use them as dry, soup peas.
  • Peas for shelling should be shelled immediately after picking or cooled immediately after picking—submerge them in cold water—for shelling later. Shelled peas are most flavorful and eaten soon after harvest—otherwise, the quality declines rapidly.
  • Harvest sugar snap peas any time after peas begin to form in the pod and continue picking until the pods are fully elongated, about 3 inches (7 cm) long. Sugar snap peas are most flavorful if picked at about half full size, about a week after flowering. Both the peas and the pods will be very sweet.
  • Harvest edible-pod snow peas or Asian peas while pods are immature and still flat—before the seeds begin to fill out. Harvest snow peas every other day to keep pods from getting too big. Snow peas that get too large will be tough. Some snow pea varieties have fibrous string along the edges of the pods; remove the strings before cooking. Snow peas can be eaten whole pod and all or shelled just like garden peas.
  • Harvest pea shoots or tendrils (used for stir-fries or steaming) when shoots are about 6 inches (15 cm) long. Cut the shoots from the vine. Edible-pod pea varieties have the tastiest shoots. Shoots that are leafless are usually tender and sweeter than leafy shoots.
  • English peas mature more rapidly in the pod than sugar snap and snow peas. It’s always best to check peas every day or two to know exactly when to pick.
Peas in basket
Keep plants well picked to encourage more pods to develop.

How to Harvest Peas

  • Pick peas with two hands. Secure the vine with one hand then pinch the stem of each pod and pull with the other hand. Don’t tug or jerk pods away; pea plants hang on to their support with thin tendrils so a heavy hand can dislodge the plant from its support.
  • Pick peas in the morning after the dew has dried. That is when they will be crisp and crunchy for fresh eating.
  • Peas must be promptly cooled to maintain freshness and to preserve sugar content (the sugar in peas quickly turns to starch after harvest unless cooled). Cooled peas will hold their quality for more than a week in the refrigerator.
  • Remove garden or field heat from peas after picking by dunking them in a cold water bath until pods are chilled then dry and refrigerate. 
  • Keep plants well picked to encourage more pods to develop. If you miss the peak harvest (check the days to maturity), you can still pick, dry, and shell peas for use in winter soups. Quality for fresh eating, declines rapidly once maturity is reached.
Peas will keep in the refrigerator for 5 to 7 days.

How to Store Peas

  • Eat peas as soon after picking as possible; the sugar that makes peas sweet begins turning to starch right after picking.
  • Store peas cold and moist, 32°-40°F (0°-4°C) and 95 percent relative humidity. Cold and moist storage is a challenge to create. Refrigerators provide the cold, but they also dry the air.
  • Place peas in a perforated plastic bag in the vegetable crisper section of the refrigerator to keep them moist.
  • Peas will keep in the refrigerator for 5 to 7 days.
  • Peas that can’t be used in a week should be frozen.
  • Peas that are stored too cold or too long will become soft and start to brown.

More tips: How to Grow Peas.

Written by Stephen Albert

Stephen Albert is a horticulturist, master gardener, and certified nurseryman who has taught at the University of California for more than 25 years. He holds graduate degrees from the University of California and the University of Iowa. His books include Vegetable Garden Grower’s Guide, Vegetable Garden Almanac & Planner, Tomato Grower’s Answer Book, and Kitchen Garden Grower’s Guide. His Vegetable Garden Grower’s Masterclass is available online. has more than 10 million visitors each year.


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  1. i have shelled peas already picked and i was wondering if there is anyone of drying them to use for seeds for next years planting?

    • To harvest seeds from this year’s plants, it is best to leave some pods on the plant at the end of harvest and allow the seeds in those pods to dry naturally. When the pods are dry and brown, you can thresh the pods and save the dry seeds in an airtight container for next year. If the pods were plump but not dry when you harvested, set the pods in a dry, shady spot with good air circulation and let them dry over the course of a week or two or more on their own. When you collect the seeds be sure to mark them so that you know these seeds did not dry on the vine; next year you can compare the germination rate of these seeds to those that dried naturally on the plant.

    • Wood ash as an NPR of 0-1.5-8; the phosphorus and potassium are good for root and all-around plant growth. Sprinkle about one pound for eery 100 square feet of garden. It would be difficult to overapply if you lightly sprinkle it around plants.

    • Peas for drying should be fresh, crisp, and from medium-size pods. They should be bright green and well filled. Smaller peas do not rehydrate well and larger peas tend to be starchy. Pretreat before drying by steam blanching for 3 minutes immediately after picking, then cool in under cold running water for a minute. The next step is drying, either oven drying in trays at 140F–you’ll need a fan outside the oven door. Or, sun drying at 100F for 3 to 4 days. Before drying, you should get a good book on drying vegetables, it is a bit more involved than this summary

  2. Hi, my tomato plants were totally besieged by flea beetles this year, in fact, this is the third year the beetles have attacked my plants. I have tried diatomaceous earth with no luck at all. I am told they over-winter in the soil. Do you have any advise for these pests please.

    • As soon as the garden is finished producing, clear out all plant debris then place clear plastic over the soil for 4 or 5 weeks to solarize (heat up) the soil; this will help kill flea beetles or larvae in the soil. Worms will burrow deep and will not be harmed. In early spring plant radishes across the planting bed; this will attack any flea beetles still around; you can then spray or dust with Sevin which is an organic pesticide.

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