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Cold Frame: Extend Your Vegetable Garden Season

Cold frame sashes upA cold frame is a bottomless box with a clear or translucent top. It is set on the ground or over a planting bed to capture solar energy and heat the air, soil, and plants inside. A cold frame can extend the growing season by one to several months.

Cold frames can be made of heavy lumber, cinder blocks, concrete, or clear plastic. The transparent top or cover is tilted toward the south or southeast to catch the sun. The back side of the cold frame is commonly six inches or more higher than the front to give a slope to the top cover (or sash) so that rain will run off and the sun’s rays will strike the inside of the frame more nearly at right angles.

Cold frames can vary in size: 6 feet long by 3 feet wide is the size of an average home garden cold frame. A small cold frame is commonly no wider than a person’s reach so that plants can be tended to without stepping into the frame. A typical cold frame is usually made eighteen to twenty four inches high or deep at the back sloping to twelve to eighteen deep at the front. The deeper the frame the taller the plants it will accommodate.

For most home vegetable gardeners, nearly all the plants in the vegetable garden can be started successfully in a cold frame or hotbed (a hotbed is a heated cold frame–sometimes heated by electricity or solar power or by–in decades and centuries past–decomposing steer or horse manure placed below the inside planting bed).

A gardener who has had no experience with cold frame has usually an exaggerated idea of the skill or cost to start and manage one. The skill is not as much a matter of expert knowledge as of regular attention and care. Only a few minutes a day will give you a successful cold frame for growing your own crops and extending the season for fresh vegetables.

A cold frame can be a permanent or portable structure. The sides of a homemade cold frame can be made out of wood planks, cinder block, or brick. A temporary home-made cold frame can use bales of hay or straw for the sides. Some store-bought portable cold frames have aluminum frames and clear plastic or Plexiglass sides and covers. (Clear sides will not afford the same degree of insulation as solid sided frames.)

A permanent cold frame set to the side of a garden plot can serve as a seed bed and starting place for crops year round. A permanent cold frame can be heavily insulated to provide a growing place in the coldest winter regions. A portable cold frame–usually easily disassembled or small enough to be carried–can be moved around to protect small plantings or beds. A portable frame is highly suitable for mild winter regions and for small gardens–a portable cold frame can be removed from a garden bed, dismantled, and stored when the warm weather arrives.

Cold frames collect solar energy for heat. Because a cold frame is a passive solar collector the sloping top is best positioned to face south, southeast, or southwest in the northern hemisphere. This will allow the maximum sunlight into the frame during winter when the sun tracks lower in the sky. The slope of the top can vary from 35 to 55 degrees. The higher the angle of slope up to 55 degrees the more sunlight will enter the frame during winter. One formula for setting the angle of the top or sash is to add 15 to 20 degrees to the latitude of your garden: thus if you live in Illinois or Pennsylvania on the 40th parallel, set the sash at 55 to 60 degrees.

The clear or translucent top or cover of the cold frame is called the sash, glazing, or light. The sash can be made of glass or rigid fiberglass, acrylic, Plexiglass, or UV-stabilized polyethylene plastic. Home-made cold frames often use old storm windows (window sashes) for covers. The cover or sash iis usually hinged at the back of the frame for easy raising and lowering and ventilation, but a top can also slide off of the frame. A cold frame top should be easily opened to ventilate the frame–that is allow fresh, cool air into the frame when the outdoor temperature rises. (You can ventilate a frame by simply propping a stick or block under the sash. As well, automatic solar-powered frame openers attached to a thermostat can also raise the top when the inside temperature reaches above 70°F.)

Cold frames commonly open to the planting bed below and can be planted in directly; allow at least 4 to 6 inches of soil for salad crops and more for larger crops. Cold frames also can have sand or gravel bottoms on which pots, containers, and seed flats can be set. Soil, sand, or gravel can be laid over a weed-proof membrane attached around the base of the frame.

Cold frame advantages. A cold frame offers plants the advantage of good outdoor light while protecting them from the cold, rain, snow, wind and hailstones. A cold frame can add 10 to 25 degrees to the outdoor temperature depending on the weather and the type of frame. Even a modest increase in soil and air temperature inside a cold frame can extend the growing season for most vegetables from 4 to 6 weeks both in spring and fall. That means an additional two to three months of edible gardening each year.

Here are things you can accomplish with a simple cold frame–a box with a glass top and the heat of the sunshine:

• Start seeds four to six weeks earlier in the spring than in the open garden (plants in the cold frame are likely to grow somewhat more slowly but will be stronger than those grown in a green house as a result of the bright natural light).

• Protect seedlings and allow them to grow strong and sturdy until they are large enough to be transplanted into the open garden.

• Harden off or acclimatize plants started in a greenhouse or hotbed before transplanting or setting them out into the open garden.

• Grow certain crops to maturity; any crop can grow to maturity in a cold frame as long as the frame is large enough to accommodate the crop and the proper temperature and watering is maintained.

• Root cuttings of perennials.

• Grow cool- and cold-hardy crops such as lettuce, spinach, and other leaf crops late into the fall or through the winter.

• Protect semi-hardy crops planted in the autumn through the winter; for example, cabbage planted in the autumn can be protected by a portable cold frame through the winter and then allowed to mature once spring arrives.

Cold frames in cold winter regions. In very cold winter regions, cold frames can be fitted with insulated sides and set atop insulated foundations to retain more heat. A wooden, block, or cement cold frame can be insulated easily with the addition of 2 or more inches of Styrofoam around the inside of the frame and with a layer of 1½ inches on the bottom under the growing bed. Insulating foam can be easily cut and glued to the inside of the frame. As well foam shutters or mats can be placed atop the frame’s clear lid at night–this can increase night air temperature inside the frame by 8°F. A double-paned glass or plastic sash (top) or a sash fitted with an under-layer of 4 to 6 mil plastic sheeting will provide additional insulation of up to 6°F.

A simple way to outfit a cold frame for cold winter regions is to place hay bales or bags of leaves around the outside of the frame. Tarps, woven mats, and old blankets can use used to insulate the top; this additional protection can increase the temperature inside the frame by 6°F at night; that can mean a season extension of 6 to 12 weeks. The inside of a frame can be painted white to reflect sunlight or black to retain heat. Thermal collectors as simple as masonry blocks or jugs of water set against the north wall of a frame will retain solar heat during the day that is released back into the frame at night.

Permanent or portable cold frame? Depending upon the size of your garden, your needs, and the number of months you want to keep the harvest going, you can use a permanent cold frame or a portable cold frame.

A permanent cold frame can be built on a foundation of concrete or block dug into the ground (which will provide increased insulation from winter temperatures) or constructed on the garden surface. A permanent frame can be constructed of heavy wooden planks–2 inch thick by 6 to 8 inches wide, and can be fitted inside with additional insulating materials. A permanent frame is likely to be sturdier and longer lasting than a portable frame and can accommodate a steeper angled sash or light and be likely to withstand a heavier load of sleet or snow without sagging.

A portable frame may be all that is needed in mild winter regions where crops require less protection than in cold winter regions. In mild regions, the portable frame can be shifted from bed to bed or disassembled when not needed. Portable frames can be constructed to fit atop permanent raised beds. Many commercial cold frames are collapsible. Portability in a small garden will allow for greater growing opportunities with limited planting bed space. A portable frame, however, will likely have less insulating capacity than a permanent frame and be subject to wider temperature fluctuations.

To decide between a permanent frame and portable frame consider:

• How and when the frame will be used.

• The climate and severity of winter.

Types of cold frames. As you consider a cold frame for your garden, you will learn about several types. Here are a few common types:

Double-glass frames. A frame whose sash or light is double glass (or plastic) will offer maximum insulation being 40 to 50 degrees warmer during the day than outside and 25 to 30 degrees warmer at night. The double layer is separated by an insulating space of air.

Single-span frame and lean-to frame. The single-span and lean-to frame allows the sash to rise at an angle of 40 to 45 degrees against a solid north-facing back wall or panel. The lean-to frame affords the most light to plants when it covers beds running east to west.

Flat-topped frame. A flat-topped frame can be as simple as a raised bed with a storm window sash or framed plastic sheet set on top to protect seedlings. You can also make a flat-topped frame by placing a rigid clear top on beams set over cinder blocks, brick, or hay bales.

Tent-style frame. A tent-style cold frame is steeply sloped from a ridge poll with two sash sides. The tent-style frame can be made from framed sheets of acrylic or fiberglass. With high-rising sides the tent-style cold frame is suited for growing large vegetables.

Double-sash cold frame. A double-sash cold frame offers access into the frame from two sides. The double-sash frame is a tent-like frame with a central hinge joining two sashes. The two sashes are joined at a T-shaped center support that runs the length of the frame. The double-sash frame allows for watering, care, and harvesting from both sides of the frame.

 

 

 

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5 Comments

  1. These are great ideas for home gardening. My Mother used cold frames last year and they worked great. I’m wondering if in colder regions for the cold frame you could use an outdoor electric heating blanket instead of an insulating blanket. I’ve seen these blankets called “powerblankets” were you can adjust the thermostat to your desired temperature. Would this work do you think or would it be hard on the plants.

  2. Thanks for this Joe. You are suggesting using the powerblanket to cover the frame at night–rather than covering the frame with an old canvas, blankets, mats, shutters, or straw. If the powerblanket comes with a thermostat–temperature control–it might work, but the emphasis is on temperature control. Let’s see if any other readers have tried it…. Without a thermostat, the risk would be to heat the interior of the frame too warm, too hot–and yes, that could damage the plants inside the frame. The traditional coldframe depends upon solar heat retained during the day and often the notion of maintaining plants through the cold times–not always growing them on. The powerblanket–using electricity–is a step towards the traditional greenhouse where temperature is modulated to the growing needs of the plants inside. Whatever the form of season extension, plant protection, the aim would be to provide a temperature range best suited to the plants inside, and this can vary depending upon the crop and its natural growing season, cool weather or warm weather.

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