Seed catalogs have been a winter tradition in my gardening life for more than 30 years. Long before online stores, these catalogs were my roadmap for planning spring, summer, and fall harvests. Today, they’re still the best place to discover new varieties, compare options, and get inspiration for the year ahead. Here’s how I read and use seed catalogs—both print and digital—to choose the right seeds for a productive, trouble-free garden.

Table of Contents

Start With Your Garden Goals

Even before I open a catalog, I start by thinking about my garden goals. I take stock of the past season—what grew well, what struggled in my garden’s warm days and cool nights, and which crops my family enjoyed the most. That quick reflection helps me focus and prioritize what I’m looking for as I browse seed catalogs.

I run through a short checklist each year:

Which crops did well, and which didn’t?
Are there varieties I absolutely want to grow again?
Do I want to try any new crops this season?
Am I aiming for earlier harvests?
Do I need better disease resistance?
Will these crops be grown in containers, raised beds, or in the ground?

Having a clear intention helps me avoid impulse buying—something I learned the hard way early on. Impulse buying in the past has left me with packets and packets of seeds I never planted.

Once I’m clear on what I want from the garden, the next step is learning how seed companies describe the plants they offer. This is where many gardeners feel overwhelmed, but it’s also where the most useful clues are hiding. Variety descriptions aren’t marketing fluff—they’re condensed field notes. When you know how to read them, they tell you whether a plant truly matches your goals, your space, and your growing conditions.

Understand Variety Descriptions

Once I’m clear on what I want from the garden, the next step is learning how seed companies describe the plants they offer. This is where many gardeners feel overwhelmed, but it’s also where the most useful clues are hiding. Variety descriptions aren’t marketing fluff—they’re condensed field notes. When you know how to read them, they tell you whether a plant truly matches your goals, your space, and your growing conditions.

Catalogs use coded shorthand and descriptive phrases. Reading them correctly is half the game.

Here’s how I interpret them:

Days to Maturity

This determines how a crop fits your season. It’s commonly the number of days from seed sowing to harvest. But for some crops such as tomatoes and peppers, it’s the number of days from transplanting to harvest.

For cool-season, fast-growing crops like lettuce, spinach, or radishes, maturity is often just a few weeks, which makes it easy to plan successive sowings in spring and fall for a steady harvest. Short-season varieties are perfect for these periods when the weather is mild but the growing window is limited.

For warm-season crops like tomatoes, peppers, and melons, maturity can take several months, and it’s important to note that seed packets often list days to maturity from transplanting, not from sowing the seed—unlike most other crops. Understanding this difference helps ensure these long-season plants have enough warmth and sunlight to fully ripen during summer planting. Planning with days to maturity in mind allows you to match crops to the right season, whether it’s spring, summer, or fall, so you get a continuous and reliable harvest throughout the year.

Think about the number of days in your growing season and when you are planting – make sure there are enough growing days to reach harvest before you plant. That means taking first and last average frost dates into consideration.

In Sonoma, where I garden year-round, I choose short-season cool-season varieties for early spring and fall success; these are usually leafy crops and root crops. I choose long-season varieties for summer staples like tomatoes, peppers, and melons. These are crops I plant in mid to late spring and harvest in late summer to mid autumn.

Planning with days to maturity in mind allows you to match crops to the right season, whether it’s spring, summer, or fall, so you get a continuous and reliable harvest throughout the year.

Growth Habit

Growth habit is one of the most important—and most overlooked—details in a seed description. It tells me how a plant will behave over the season, not just how big it gets on paper. Understanding this early helps me place plants where they can grow well without crowding, constant pruning, or surprise takeovers.

With tomatoes, I always note whether a variety is determinate or indeterminate. Determinate tomatoes grow to a set size and tend to ripen their fruit over a shorter window, which works well for containers, smaller beds, or gardeners who want a concentrated harvest. Indeterminate tomatoes keep growing and producing until frost, but they need sturdy support and more space to do it well.

For crops like cucumbers, beans, and squash, words such as compact, dwarf, vining, or trailing tell me whether a plant will stay politely contained or spread aggressively. A compact or dwarf variety fits neatly into raised beds and containers, while vining or trailing types benefit from trellises or wide spacing where they can roam without smothering nearby crops.

I pay especially close attention to growth habit when gardening in containers. In limited space, choosing the right plant form matters as much as soil and watering. Matching growth habit to available space saves time, reduces stress on the plants, and makes the entire season easier to manage from the start.

Look for words like:

Determinate / indeterminate (tomatoes)
Compact, dwarf, vining, trailing (cucumbers, beans, squash)

Container growers should pay extra attention here.

Flavor Notes

After decades of vegetable trials, I’ve learned that flavor descriptions are generally trustworthy—especially from reputable catalogs that trial their own seed. When a tomato is described as having “old-fashioned sweetness,” I expect a balanced, full flavor rather than sharp acidity. A carrot labeled “nutty” or “complex” usually delivers deeper flavor when grown slowly in cool soil, while lettuces described as “mild” consistently avoid bitterness, even as days warm. These small phrases help me narrow choices toward varieties I know I’ll actually enjoy harvesting and eating, not just growing.

Disease Resistance Codes

Disease resistance codes are one of the first things I scan for when choosing seed, especially for long-season or heavily planted crops. After years of watching healthy plants collapse late in the season, I’ve learned to take these small letters seriously. When I see a “V” or “F” on a tomato packet, I know that variety has built-in resistance to Verticillium or Fusarium—two soil-borne diseases that can quietly undo months of work.

Powdery mildew and downy mildew are different challenges, but just as familiar. In crops like squash, cucumbers, and lettuces, resistance codes such as “PM” or “DM” often make the difference between a productive harvest and a season cut short. Resistance doesn’t mean a plant will never get sick—it means it can tolerate pressure better and continue producing under conditions that would stop a more vulnerable variety. I’ve had years where those codes were the only reason a planting made it through to harvest, and over time, they’ve saved entire crops in my garden.

Once again, as a crucial part of seed selection, look for symbols such as:

V = Verticillium
F = Fusarium
PM = Powdery Mildew
DM = Downy Mildew

These codes have saved entire crops in my garden.

Choose Regional-Appropriate Seeds

I’ve learned over the years that not every seed performs well in every climate, no matter how appealing the description sounds. A variety that thrives in one region can struggle or fail outright in another. That’s why I always start by matching seed choices to local growing conditions before thinking about yield or novelty.

Here in Sonoma Valley, where winters are mild and summers are long, I look for varieties described as well suited to Mediterranean climates, warm days with cool nights, and long growing seasons. These plants tend to handle gradual spring warm-ups, steady summer heat, and extended harvest windows without stress.

Gardeners in cooler regions (Zones 3–5) often need varieties that mature quickly and tolerate cool soil and shorter summers. Descriptions that mention early maturity, cold tolerance, or short-season performance are especially meaningful there, because they signal plants bred to produce reliably before fall weather returns.

In moderate climates (Zones 6–7), flexibility matters most. Many regions experience warm summers, cool springs, and unpredictable shoulder seasons. I look for varieties noted for adaptability or wide regional performance, since they tend to handle swings in temperature better than highly specialized types.

For warm and hot regions (Zones 8–10), heat tolerance becomes critical. Seed descriptions that mention heat-set, humidity tolerance, or resistance to bolting often determine whether a crop produces steadily or shuts down in mid-season. In these areas, varieties bred for southern or subtropical conditions usually outperform those developed for cooler climates.

Whenever a catalog includes regional trial notes, I pay close attention. Those small observations—where a variety was tested and how it performed—often tell me more than any photograph. Over time, choosing region-appropriate seed has been one of the most reliable ways I’ve improved consistency and harvest quality across seasons.

Check for Open-Pollinated vs Hybrid

The seed packet or catalog will tell you if a the seeds are open-pollinated or hybrid. Both open-pollinated and hybrid varieties have their place in my garden. I tend to use open-pollinated (OP) varieties for crops I want to save seed from—lettuce, beans, peas, and tomatoes are my favorites. Watching these plants grow, harvest, and then produce seed for the next year has been one of the most rewarding parts of gardening over the decades.

On the other hand, I often turn to hybrids (F1) for crops that face heavy disease pressure, like cucumbers or squash. After many years of trials, I’ve come to rely on the consistency hybrids provide, particularly during the height of summer when heat and pests can stress plants. They may not produce seed worth saving, but for dependable harvests under challenging conditions, hybrids have earned their spot in my beds.

Understanding the differences between OP and hybrid varieties makes it much easier to interpret flavor, growth, and yield descriptions in seed catalogs—so you can choose the varieties that will thrive and taste best in your own garden.

Both have their place:

Open-Pollinated (OP)

I use OP varieties for crops I want to save seed from—lettuce, beans, peas, tomatoes.

Hybrids (F1)

For disease-heavy crops like cucumbers or squash, hybrids often outperform. After many years of trials, I’ve come to rely on the consistency hybrids offer, especially in summer’s peak.

Look for Special Features That Fit Your Style

Certain plant traits can make any gardener’s season easier and more productive—if you know what to look for. Heat-tolerant greens like Swiss chard ‘Bright Lights’ or kale ‘Red Russian’ help extend summer harvests without bolting, while bolt-resistant herbs such as parsley ‘Italian Giant’ or cilantro ‘Santo’ stay flavorful longer. Drought-tolerant varieties, like tomatoes ‘Celebrity’ or squash ‘Goldbar’, are ideal for raised beds or dry climates, and compact plants, including bush beans ‘Provider’ or dwarf zucchini ‘Raven’, fit neatly into containers or small spaces. Early-maturing crops, like radishes ‘Cherry Belle’ or lettuce ‘Buttercrunch’, allow for staggered harvests and a steady supply of fresh produce.

For colder climates or regions with frost, choose varieties bred to handle chill. Kale ‘Winterbor’, spinach ‘Giant Winter’, and lettuce ‘Arctic King’ tolerate frosts, while root crops like carrots ‘Nelson’ and beets ‘Bull’s Blood’ can survive light freezes.

By paying attention to these special features and matching them to your local climate and growing conditions, you can select varieties that save time, reduce stress, and give your garden the best chance to thrive—no matter where you garden.

Browse the Photos—But Don’t Buy on Looks Alone

Beautiful photos inspire me every winter. I love seeing rows of perfectly shaped tomatoes, glistening beans, or vibrantly colored peppers—it’s part of the fun of flipping through seed catalogs. But I learned early on that color and symmetry alone don’t equal garden performance. A stunning image might hide a plant that struggles with disease, bolting, or poor flavor in real conditions.

Before committing, I always cross-check the photo with the growth notes, looking for details on size, habit, and spacing. I check maturity days to make sure the variety will produce in my local season. Disease resistance codes tell me whether it can handle common challenges in my garden. And I pay attention to user reviews—the real-world experiences of other gardeners often reveal surprises that a catalog photo can’t.

A pretty tomato isn’t worth it if it splits in the first heatwave, a cucumber goes bitter, or a squash bolts before fruiting. Over the years, these small checks have saved me from disappointment and guided me toward varieties that don’t just look good—they deliver on flavor, productivity, and resilience.

Order Early

Seed shortages have been common in recent years. I now order in late December or early January. Popular varieties—especially disease-resistant tomatoes and specialty baby greens—sell out quickly.

Track Your Selections

I keep a simple spreadsheet each year to track my seed purchases, and over time, it has become one of my most valuable gardening tools. I record the varieties I order, the catalog or seed source, how many packets or seeds I buy, and the price, along with notes on performance, including flavor, yield, and how well a plant handled pests, heat, or frost. To make the spreadsheet even more useful, I also include the USDA zone suitability to see which varieties thrive locally, maturity days to help plan staggered harvests, growth habit to know whether plants are vining, compact, determinate, or indeterminate, and special traits like heat tolerance, frost resistance, or disease resistance. I sometimes add a success rating—a simple 1–5 score for how well each plant performed—so patterns are easy to spot.

Having this record makes a big difference season after season. It helps me refine my choices, remember which varieties consistently produce well, and avoid repeats of those that underperformed. Keeping track this way prevents mistakes, saves money, and makes planning next year’s garden much easier. Over time, this simple habit has transformed seed-buying from guesswork into a system I trust.

My Favorite Trusted Catalogs

From decades of gardening experience, I’ve found several seed catalogs to be consistently reliable and inspiring. Johnny’s Selected Seeds and Territorial Seed Company are excellent for high-quality vegetables, herbs, and flowers, with detailed growing notes that help gardeners plan successful crops. Baker Creek shines when you’re looking to experiment with unusual heirlooms, rare varieties, or colorful heritage seeds. High Mowing Organic Seeds and Seed Savers Exchange specialize in organic and heritage varieties that have stood the test of time, perfect for gardeners who prioritize flavor and sustainability.

Classic catalogs like Burpee, Ferry-Morse, and Renee’s Garden Seeds offer user-friendly layouts and dependable favorites, alongside seasonal novelties for inspiration. Each catalog has its strengths, and over time, you’ll learn which ones best match your climate, gardening style, and personal taste.

Beyond the major catalogs, I also encourage exploring small local seed companies or co-ops in your region. These sources often carry varieties adapted to your local climate, support regional agriculture, and can provide personal advice you won’t find in a large catalog. Combining trusted national sources with local suppliers is a strategy that consistently yields both reliable and exciting harvests.

Bring It All Together

Choosing seeds doesn’t have to feel overwhelming. By starting with your garden goals, reading variety descriptions carefully, and paying attention to traits like growth habit, disease resistance, and climate suitability, you can make informed choices that set your garden up for success. Keeping notes, exploring trusted catalogs, and experimenting with a few new varieties each year helps you build a collection of reliable favorites while still keeping the joy of discovery alive. Over time, this approach turns seed shopping from a chore into one of the most rewarding parts of the gardening season—laying the foundation for gardens that are productive, resilient, and full of flavor.

Seed Catalog Comparison Worksheet

Choosing the right seeds starts with knowing how to compare what different catalogs are offering. Over more than 30 years of gardening—and many seasons comparing dozens of varieties—I’ve refined a simple worksheet that helps me choose the best seeds for my climate, garden space, and goals. Below is a blog-friendly version you can publish as-is or customize.

How to Use This Worksheet

Print this guide or paste it into your garden notebook. Use it each winter as you flip through seed catalogs—both online and in print. Compare varieties side-by-side to find the best match for your garden.

1. Basic Variety Comparison

Crop:
Variety Name:
Catalog Source:
Open-Pollinated or Hybrid (OP/F1):
Days to Maturity:
Growth Habit (compact, vining, determinate, dwarf):
General Notes:

2. Climate & Garden Fit

Heat Tolerance (Yes/No/Notes):
Cold Tolerance (Yes/No/Notes):
Drought Tolerance (Yes/No/Notes):
Container-Friendly? (Yes/No):
Good for Raised Beds? (Yes/No):
Suitable for Your Climate? (Yes/No):

3. Disease Resistance Review

List any codes provided in the catalog—such as V (Verticillium), F (Fusarium), PM (Powdery Mildew), or DM (Downy Mildew). These make a big difference in long-term success.

Disease Resistance Codes:
Notes on Resistance and Regional Performance:

4. Flavor & Culinary Use

Flavor is one of the biggest reasons I choose one variety over another. After decades of trials, I know catalog flavor notes are usually reliable—and worth paying attention to.

Flavor Description:
Intended Use (fresh eating, canning, roasting, storage, pickling):
Catalog Flavor Notes or Ratings:
Your Notes After Growing (fill in at season’s end):

5. Price & Packet Details

Costs can add up quickly, especially if you grow a wide variety of crops. This section keeps your purchases smart and intentional.

Packet Price:
Seeds per Packet:
Price per Seed (optional):
Bulk or Larger Packet Options:
Shipping Notes or Discounts:

6. Final Decision Summary

At the end of your comparison, make a clear decision on each variety before ordering. This is where I save myself time, money, and mid-season frustration.

Decision (Keep / Maybe / Skip):
Reason (performance, flavor, price, climate fit, personal preference):

Printable Version

Copy and paste the worksheet sections to create as many variety pages as you need. Many gardeners keep one sheet per crop—for example, one for tomatoes, one for cucumbers, one for lettuces—making the comparison easy and organized.

Seed Catalog Comparison Worksheet

Use this worksheet to compare up to four seed varieties from different catalogs. I designed it based on how I’ve compared varieties over 30+ years of gardening.

Section 1 — Basic Variety Comparison

Crop	Variety Name	Catalog Source	Open-Pollinated or Hybrid	Days to Maturity	Growth Habit	Notes

Section 2 — Climate & Garden Fit

Heat Tolerance	Cold Tolerance	Drought Tolerance	Container-Friendly?	Good for Raised Beds?	Suitable for Your Climate?
Yes / No / Notes	Yes / No / Notes	Yes / No / Notes	Yes / No	Yes / No	Yes / No
Yes / No / Notes	Yes / No / Notes	Yes / No / Notes	Yes / No	Yes / No	Yes / No
Yes / No / Notes	Yes / No / Notes	Yes / No / Notes	Yes / No	Yes / No	Yes / No