Hard-boil 2 eggs and shell them. Boil 4 ounces, generous ½ cup (100 g) of rice. Leave to cool. Peel 12 small pickling onions. Clean 1 large bulb of fennel and slice it finely. Cut 4 small tomatoes into quarters....

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Topics Index

almanac apples artichoke arugula asparagus basil beans beets best bet varieties blueberries bok choy books broccoli brussels sprouts cabbage carrots cauliflower celery chard cherries chilies Chinese cabbage Chinese leaves compost cooking cool-season vegetables corn cucumbers dates delicious bite delicious bites dried beans eggplant farmers market fennel fresh this week garbanzo bean gardening tips garlic grapefruit grapes herbs horseradish hot peppers how to grow in the garden kale kitchen garden kitchen garden almanac kohlrabi leeks legumes lemon lettuce mandarin orange melons mint mushrooms mustard greens nectarines okra olives onions oranges parsnips peaches pears peas peppers pests and diseases pests diseases problems potatoes pumpkin radish recipes rutabaga salsify seed starting shallots soil Southern Hemisphere spinach spring onions squash strawberry summer squash sun-dried tomato sunchokes sweet corn sweet pepper sweet potato tangerine tomato turnip turnip greens vegetable garden watermelons winter squash zucchini

Planning Succession Crops

Succession planting will allow you to plant several times throughout the growing season for a continuous supply of fresh vegetables.

To plan succession crops you must know two things:

• The number of weeks of growing season in your garden. The length of the growing season is the number weeks between the last frost in spring and the first frost in autumn. The local cooperative extension office can tell you the length of the growing season in your location or you can ask an experienced gardener at a nearby garden center.

• The number of weeks each crop you wish to grow requires to germinate, grow, and reach harvestable size. The chart below will help you make these calculations. Note the number of weeks a particular crop require in the garden can vary by variety--for example, some varieties of corn require more days to reach harvest than others.

So here is your succession cropping planning formula:

Number of days to harvest for Crop 1 + Number of days to harvest for Crop 2 = Total number of days in the garden. You can add Crop 3 as long as the total continues to be less than the number of days in the growing season.

Continue reading "Planning Succession Crops" »

Harvest to Table's New Encyclopedia:
The Kitchen Garden Grower's Guide

A practical vegetable and herb garden encyclopedia

An enthusiastic and accessible companion, The Kitchen Garden Grower's Guide: A practical vegetable and herb garden encyclopedia by Stephen Albert details the very essentials to gain small crop prowess and expertise. This in-depth reference book is for the kitchen gardener and cook, a simple, one-stop, easy-to-use guide to bring fresh, inexpensive and healthy food from your garden to your table. Use this book as an index and information bank-a cornucopia-to access your favorite small vine fruits, vegetables and herbs and answer your particular questions.

Succession Planting

Succession planting means growing different crops in the same space one right after the other in the same season, or planting the same crop in different parts of the garden in succession at different times.

For example:

• A row of carrots is planted in early spring: after the carrots are harvested in early summer, the vacated row is re-planted with snap beans for harvest in early fall. The two crops are grown on the same ground.

Or:

• A garden space is divided into three sections: a first sowing of radishes is planted in the first section; in 10 days, the second section is planted with radishes; in another 10 days the third section is planted with radishes. Successive sowings of the same crop are made in different locations at 10-day intervals.

Succession planting allows for a continuous, uninterrupted harvest. Succession planting is sometimes called relay cropping.

Succession planting is different than rotation cropping. Rotation cropping is the practice of not planting the same crop in the same place for at least three successive years. Crop rotation ensures that the same plants or plants from the same family will not deplete the same soil nutrients year after year.

Continue reading "Succession Planting" »

Broccoli Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Broccoli is treated much as cabbage. Grow broccoli as rapidly as possible. Give broccoli plenty of moisture and be sure to feed it through the season--a planting bed amended with aged compost is an important start. While broccoli is hardy at maturity, young plants should not be subjected to frost.

For broccoli growing tips see How to Grow Broccoli or Broccoli Growing Success Tips at the bottom of this post.

Here are common broccoli growing problems with cures and controls:

Seedlings fail to emerge from soil; seedlings are eaten; roots are tunneled. Cabbage maggot is a small gray-white, legless worm to ⅓-inch long; adult is the cabbage root fly, looks like a housefly. Flies lay eggs in the soil near the seedling or plant. Maggots will tunnel into roots leaving brown scars; some plants may be honeycombed with slimy tunnels. Exclude flies with floating row covers. Remove and dispose of damaged plants. Apply lime or wood ashes around the base of plants; time planting to avoid insect growth cycle. Plant a bit later when the weather is drier.

Continue reading "Broccoli Growing Problems: Troubleshooting" »

Brussels Sprouts Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Brussels sprouts are a fall vegetable; there is not enough cool spring weather in most regions to bring sprouts to harvest before summer. Brussels sprouts require about 3 months to reach harvest size.

Sprouts--buds or heads that resemble miniature cabbage--form in the axils of leaves. Sprouts appear first at the bottom of the stalk and must be picked as they mature. Remove leaves as buds are picked to make the harvest easier; the top leaves are never disturbed.

Brussels sprouts can easily bear light frosts and they can even take freezing weather if the thaw afterwards is gradual. But it is best to complete the sprout harvest soon after the first frost.

For Brussels sprouts growing tips see How to Grow Brussels Sprouts or Brussels Sprouts Growing Success Tips at the bottom of this post.

Here are common Brussels sprouts growing problems with cures and controls:

Continue reading "Brussels Sprouts Growing Problems: Troubleshooting" »

Cauliflower Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Cauliflower is grown much like cabbage, but requires more careful treatment. It is best to start cauliflower indoors where it can be protected from both cold and hot temperatures. Spring-planted cauliflower is likely to face early cold and late heat which will make the effort difficult. Summer-planted cauliflower for fall harvest will be both easier to grow and more flavorful--cauliflower prefers to leisurely mature in cool weather. Start the fall cauliflower crop at the same time you plant late cabbage

For cauliflower growing tips see How to Grow Cauliflower or Cauliflower Growing Success Tips at the bottom of this post.

Here are common cauliflower growing problems with cures and controls:

Continue reading "Cauliflower Growing Problems: Troubleshooting" »

Turnip, Rutabaga, Kohlrabi Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Grow turnip, rutabaga, and kohlrabi in cool-weather. Get these vegetables started early in spring at least two months before the onset of very warm weather, or plant them in late summer so that they come to harvest in the cool days of autumn.

Grow turnips, rutabagas, and kohlrabi rapidly--these crops are most flavorful if they don't linger in the garden. Thin these crops early to 2½ inches apart or more; they will suffer if crowded.

For turnip growing tips see How to Grow Turnips or Turnip Growing Success Tips at the bottom of this post.

Here are common turnip growing problems with cures and controls:

Seeds rot or seedlings collapse with dark water-soaked stems as soon as they appear. Damping off is a fungus that lives in the soil, particularly where humidity is high. Do not plant in cold, moist soil. Make sure soil is well drained.

Young plants are eaten or cut off near soil level. Cutworms are gray grubs ½- to ¾-inch long that can be found curled under the soil. They chew stems, roots, and leaves. Place a 3-inch paper collar around the stem of the plant. Keep the garden free of weeds; sprinkle wood ash around base of plants.

Continue reading "Turnip, Rutabaga, Kohlrabi Growing Problems: Troubleshooting" »

Tomato Seed Saving

Tomato seed from open pollinated varieties can be saved for planting next year. Open pollinated plants are allowed to pollinate each other in the open garden. Because tomatoes are self-pollinating plants (meaning male and female flower parts exist in the same flower), open-pollinated tomatoes are generally predictable and consistent (more below on hybrids and heirlooms). Collect seed from any of these tomatoes for planting again next season.

Open-Pollinated Tomatoes:

• 1884. 78 days. Indeterminate; red beefsteak 16 ounces; excellent old-fashioned flavor; heirloom.

• Abraham Lincoln. 80-90 days. Indeterminate; red globe shape; clusters of up to 9 fruits; meaty, smooth sweet flavor.

• Ace 55. 80 days. Indeterminate; red globe shape to 7 ounces; low acid, tart flavor.

• Aker's West Virginia. 85 days. Indeterminate; red beefsteak to 1 pound; excellent flavor; West Virginia heirloom.

• Amish Paste. 85 days. Indeterminate; red paste to 8 ounces; sweet flavor; Amish heirloom.

• Amana Orange. 90 days. Indeterminate; orange beefsteak to 5 inches in diameter. Mild flavor. From Amana, Iowa.

• Anna Russian. 70 days. Indeterminate; red oxheart to 1 pound; outstanding flavor; heirloom from Russia.

• Arkansas Traveler. 85 days. Indeterminate; pink globe shape; mild flavor, juicy; heat and humidity tolerant; pre-1900.

Continue reading "Tomato Seed Saving" »

Cabbage Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Grow cabbage as rapidly as possible. Give cabbage plenty of moisture and be sure to feed it through the season--a planting bed amended with aged compost and side dressings of compost tea every two weeks will do the job.

Cabbage can be grown in three distinct crops: early, midseason and late. Early cabbage can be wintered over in cold frames from seed started the preceding fall (or sow early cabbage in hotbeds in late winter and transplant in early spring). Midseason cabbage may be sown in the cold frame 6 weeks before transplanting into the garden after the last frost in spring. Late varieties may be sown in early summer directly in the garden where they are to mature.

While cabbage is hardy at maturity, young plants should not be subjected to frost.

For cabbage growing tips see How to Grow Cabbage or Cabbage Growing Success Tips at the bottom of this post.

Here are common cabbage growing problems with cures and controls:

Continue reading "Cabbage Growing Problems: Troubleshooting" »

Radish Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Radishes are a cool weather crop that will tolerate some heat. Sow radishes in the garden as soon as the soil can be worked in spring and plant succession crops every 10 days until the end of spring.

Lifting radishes as soon as they are large enough to eat is important. Radishes that stay too long in the garden will become woody. Radishes germinate readily and grow rapidly so don't sow radishes too thickly and thin seedlings right away so that they don't stand closer than 1½ inches apart.

For radish growing tips see How to Grow Radish or Radish Growing Success Tips at the bottom of this post.

Here are common radish growing problems with cures and controls:

Roots fail to form. Seed are sown too thickly. Thin radishes early and harvest roots as soon as they are large enough to eat. Thin seedlings to 1½ to 2 inches apart.

Tiny shot-holes in leaves of seedlings. Flea beetles are tiny bronze or black beetles a sixteenth of an inch long. They eat small holes in the leaves of seedlings and small transplants. The larvae feed on roots of germinating plants. Spread diatomaceous earth around seedling. Cultivate often to disrupt life cycle. Keep garden clean.

Continue reading "Radish Growing Problems: Troubleshooting" »

Spinach Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Grow spinach in cool weather. Sow spinach in the garden as early as the ground can be worked in spring. Make succession sowings every 10 days for a continuous harvest of young tasty leaves. Continue sowing spinach until just a few weeks before the start of summer. Sow spinach again in late summer for a cool fall harvest. In mild winter regions, sow spinach in autumn for spring harvest.

For spinach growing tips see How to Grow Spinach or Spinach Growing Success Tips at the bottom of this post.

Here are common spinach growing problems with cures and controls:

Seedlings fail to emerge; poor germination. Seed sown too shallow. High temperatures or dry conditions will cause seed to dry and fail to germinate. Sow seed in cool weather. Keep soil evenly moist to allow for germination.

Plants are eaten or cut off near soil level. Cutworms are gray grubs ½- to ¾-inch long that can be found curled under the soil. They chew stems, roots, and leaves. Place a 3-inch paper collar around the stem of the plant. Keep the garden free of weeds; sprinkle wood ash around base of plants.

Continue reading "Spinach Growing Problems: Troubleshooting" »

Carrot and Parsnip Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Carrots and parsnips grow best in loose, sandy, humus-rich soil. Size does not make for more flavorful carrots and parsnips. For best flavor, lift both crops before they reach maximum size.

Carrots and parsnips can be sown thickly; later thin both from 2 to 2½ inches apart or more depending upon the variety. Young thinned carrots can be used fresh in salads.

Carrots and parsnips are in the same plant family and are attacked by the same insects and diseases. Watch for the carrot rust fly, a dark-green fly that lays eggs in the soil near carrots, parsnips, and celery; the larvae dig through the soil to the tip of the carrot and eat their way upward.

For carrot growing tips see How to Grow Carrots or Carrot Growing Success Tips at the bottom of this post.

Here are common carrot growing problems with cures and controls:

Seedlings fail to emerge. (1) Soil crusting: keep planting beds evenly moist until seedlings emerge; protect planting beds from heavy overhead irrigation or heavy rain which will cause soil to compact and crust. (2) High temperatures can keep seed from germinating.

Carrots emerge in clumps or not at all. Seed sown too shallow. Warm weather or dry conditions will cause seed to dry and not germinate. Cover seed with 1 inch of fine aged-compost or vermiculite. Keep soil evenly moist to allow for germination.

Continue reading "Carrot and Parsnip Growing Problems: Troubleshooting" »

Beets and Chard Growing Problems: Troubleshooting

Beets grow best in cool weather. Grow beets in spring and fall in warm summer regions, in summer and late fall in mild summer regions, and in summer and early fall in cool summer regions. For best fresh eating, harvest beats when they are half grown--about six weeks after sowing. Beets will still be good eating when grown to full size.

Thinning beets is important: thin first when roots begin to thicken--the tops will be young and tender and can be served fresh in salads. Keep an eye on maturing roots and thin once more to make sure beets don't grow crowded; crowded beets will not be flavorful.

Swiss chard--chard--is a close relative of the beet. Chard shares many of the growing techniques of beets, and many of the same pest and disease problems.

For beet growing tips see How to Grow Beets or Beet Growing Success Tips at the bottom of this post. For chard growing tips see How to Grow Chard.

Here are common beet growing problems with cures and controls:

Seedlings fail to emerge. Temperatures were too high when beets were planted; seed fail to germinate in hot weather. Mulch planting bed with aged compost. Keep planting bed evenly moist until seedlings emerge.

Seedlings are eaten or cut off near soil level. Cutworms are gray grubs ½- to ¾-inch long that can be found curled under the soil. They chew stems, roots, and leaves. Place a 3-inch paper collar around the stem of the plant. Keep the garden free of weeds; sprinkle wood ash around base of plants.

Continue reading "Beets and Chard Growing Problems: Troubleshooting" »

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Harvest to Table's New Encyclopedia: The Kitchen Garden Grower's Guide

A practical vegetable and herb garden encyclopedia

Harvest to Table's New Encyclopedia:
The Kitchen Garden Grower's Guide