How to Plant Successive Crops in a No-Till Garden
Planting multiple crops back-to-back in the same bed without tilling is one of the most powerful ways to build fertile soil, grow more food in less space, and maintain a thriving, living garden year-round. No-till succession planting relies on preserving soil structure, keeping roots in the ground, and adding organic matter on the surface so soil organisms—not shovels—prepare the next planting for you. With the right timing and techniques, you can transition from one crop to the next quickly and smoothly, all while improving soil health each season.
Step 1: Remove the Finished Crop Without Disturbing the Soil
When the first crop is done, leave the roots in place.
How to Do It
- Cut plants off at soil level with hand pruners or a hori-hori.
- Leave the roots to decompose and feed microbes.
- Only pull plants if they are diseased.
Why It Works
- Soil stays structured and aerated.
- Root channels become pathways for the next crop’s roots.
- Microbes stay active and undisturbed.
Step 2: Add Surface Amendments—Not Amendments Mixed In
Instead of turning in compost or fertilizers, apply them on top.
What to Add
- Compost (nutritional or fertilizing): ½–1 inch
- Mulch: 1–2 inches depending on crop
- Light organic fertilizer: optional, depending on crop needs
Why It Works
- Mimics forest-floor nutrient cycling.
- Worms and microbes pull nutrients downward naturally.
- Prevents compaction and maintains soil layers.
Step 3: Pull Back Mulch and Plant
When you’re ready to plant the next crop:
How to Do It
- Pull mulch back just enough to create a small planting hole or trench.
- Plant transplants directly into the soil underneath.
- For seeds, create a narrow furrow through the mulch to expose soil.
- After planting, return mulch lightly around seedlings (but not touching stems).
Crop Examples
- After peas, plant lettuce, beans, or cucumbers.
- After garlic, plant fall brassicas (broccoli, kale, cauliflower).
- After lettuce, plant carrots or beets.
- After corn, plant winter squash or cover crops.
Step 4: Water Thoroughly
Moisture activates soil biology, helps mulch settle, and assists decomposition of the previous crop’s roots.
Step 5: Keep the Soil Covered at All Times
To maintain a productive no-till bed:
- Keep living roots or mulch in place year-round.
- Never leave soil bare—not even for a few days.
- Use cover crops between major plantings if timing allows.
Best Succession Techniques for No-Till Gardeners
1. Relay Planting
Plant the next crop alongside the current crop before it finishes.
Example: Sow carrots under aging lettuce.
2. Chop-and-Drop
Cut the finished crop at the base and leave leaves/stems as mulch.
3. Interplanting for Seamless Transitions
Mix crops with different growth speeds.
Example: Radishes with carrots; radishes finish first and leave room behind.
4. Cover Crop Bridges
Short-window cover crops (buckwheat, clover) improve soil while you wait to plant the next crop.
Which Crops Follow Each Other Best?
Heavy Feeders → Light/Moderate Feeders
- Tomatoes → Lettuce, spinach, radish
- Corn → Beans or peas
- Brassicas → Leafy greens
Shallow-Rooted → Deep-Rooted
- Lettuce → Carrots
- Spinach → Parsnips
- Basil → Sweet potatoes
Fast → Slow
- Radishes → Beets
- Arugula → Onions
- Cilantro → Peppers
My Experience
I’ve gardened year-round in Sonoma Valley for decades using no-till and successive-planting techniques in raised, mounded, and in-ground beds. As a former UC Extension landscape design instructor and long-time master gardener, I’ve tested nearly every method for transitioning from one crop to the next without disturbing the soil. What I’ve learned is that no-till succession planting not only protects soil biology—it makes the garden easier to manage and dramatically more productive. The following guidance reflects practices I use in my own vegetable beds each season.
1. Succession Planting Chart by Season (No-Till Focused)
SPRING → SUMMER SUCCESSIONS
| First Crop (Spring) | Follow With (Summer) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Radish | Carrots, beets | Radish roots leave channels for slower germinating crops. |
| Lettuce | Cucumbers, beans | Pull mulch back for cucumbers. |
| Peas | Tomatoes, cucumbers | Nitrogen left behind fuels heavy feeders. |
| Spinach | Peppers, basil | Add ½ inch compost before planting. |
| Broccoli | Summer squash | Cut broccoli at base; leave roots. |
| Cilantro | Eggplant | Cool-loving → heat-loving transition works well. |
SUMMER → FALL SUCCESSIONS
| First Crop (Summer) | Follow With (Fall) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Green beans | Kale, cabbage, broccoli | Beans fix nitrogen—great for brassicas. |
| Cucumbers | Spinach, radishes | Clear vines, add compost, plant immediately. |
| Tomatoes | Lettuce, cilantro, mustard greens | Plant in cleared mulch pockets. |
| Corn | Winter squash or cover crops | Use stalks as landscape stakes or mulch. |
| Summer squash | Beets, carrots | Add light compost to recharge soil. |
| Melons | Garlic or shallots | Ideal timing in many climates. |
FALL → WINTER SUCCESSIONS
| First Crop (Fall) | Follow With (Winter) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Kale | Garlic or onions | Cut kale at base; leave roots. |
| Broccoli | Fava beans | Deep-rooted favas break compaction and add nitrogen. |
| Lettuce | Arugula, mache, spinach | Very easy transition. |
| Carrots | Peas | Carrot roots leave channels for peas. |
WINTER → SPRING SUCCESSIONS
| First Crop (Winter) | Follow With (Spring) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Garlic | Tomatoes, peppers | Heavy feeders thrive after garlic. |
| Fava beans | Corn, squash | Favas leave nitrogen-rich biomass. |
| Overwintered spinach | Brassicas | Quick early harvest clears space. |
| Cover crops | Anything | Chop-and-drop, add mulch, plant into stubble. |
2. No-Till Crop-Pairing Guide (Best Successions)
Here are the strongest crop pairings for no-till, organized by principle.
Heavy Feeder → Light Feeder
- Tomatoes → Lettuce, arugula
- Corn → Beans, peas
- Broccoli → Spinach, radish
Why it works:
Heavy feeders remove nutrients; light feeders grow well afterward with minimal replenishment.
Light Feeder → Heavy Feeder
- Peas → Tomatoes, cucumbers
- Beans → Brassicas
- Lettuce → Peppers, summer squash
Why it works:
Legumes fix nitrogen; leafy greens leave soils loose.
Shallow-Rooted → Deep-Rooted
- Lettuce → Carrots
- Bok choy → Parsnips
- Basil → Sweet potatoes
Why it works:
Deep roots break compaction; shallow roots leave soil ready for deeper vegetables.
Fast Crop → Slow Crop
- Radish → Beets
- Arugula → Onions
- Spinach → Tomatoes (with transplants)
Why it works:
Fast crops open space early without disturbing soil.
Cool-Season → Warm-Season
- Peas → Cucumbers
- Broccoli → Summer squash
- Spinach → Tomatoes
Why it works:
Cool crops finish right as summer crops want planting.
3. Checklist: How to Plant One Crop After Another Without Tilling
✔ Step 1 — Clear Finished Crop Without Disturbance
- Cut plants at soil line.
- Leave all roots in the ground.
- Remove only diseased material.
✔ Step 2 — Add Surface Amendments
- Apply ½–1 inch compost.
- Add 1–2 inches mulch.
- Do NOT mix or turn amendments in.
- Water to activate decomposition.
✔ Step 3 — Prepare Planting Spot
- Pull mulch back just enough for planting.
- For seeds: make a narrow, mulch-free furrow.
- For transplants: plant into underlying soil, then tuck mulch back.
✔ Step 4 — Plant the Successive Crop
- Use the seasonal succession chart for best follow-up crops.
- Choose “heavy → light” or “shallow → deep” transitions.
✔ Step 5 — Maintain Moisture
- Keep soil evenly moist to stimulate microbial and worm activity.
✔ Step 6 — Keep Soil Covered at All Times
- Reapply mulch as needed.
- Fill gaps with fast leafy greens or quick cover crops.
✔ Step 7 — Monitor and Adjust
- Look for slowed growth (add compost).
- Look for mulch thinning (reapply).
- Look for compaction (add roots—no broadforking needed unless extreme).
