Southern peas—also called cowpeas, field peas, or crowder peas—are one of the most dependable warm-season crops for home gardeners. If you garden in a hot summer climate, few vegetables reward you with more productivity for so little effort. I’ve grown Southern peas for decades in both inland valleys and hot summer regions, and I return to them year after year because they’re simple, resilient, and generous.

Below is everything you need to know—from choosing varieties to planting, tending, and harvesting—based on long-term hands-on growing experience and backed by proven horticultural best practices.

What Are Southern Peas?

Southern peas (Vigna unguiculata) are not true peas. They’re warm-season legumes native to Africa, prized for their drought tolerance, nitrogen-fixing roots, and ability to produce nutritious pods and peas in extreme heat. They thrive where snap beans struggle and where garden soils need restorative fertility.

Why Grow Southern Peas? (Experience Insight)

After 30+ years of gardening in warm, dry summers, I rely on Southern peas because:

They tolerate heat that shuts down many vegetables.
They thrive in average or even poor soils.
They need very little irrigation once established.
They fix nitrogen, improving soil for the next crop.
They produce heavy yields with minimal maintenance.

Southern peas are a cornerstone crop for regenerative gardeners and year-round growers in warm climates.

Planting Southern Peas

Best Time to Plant

Plant when soil temperatures reach 65–70°F and all danger of frost has passed.

In hot-summer climates: April–July
In mild coastal climates: May–August

Southern peas love heat—don’t rush planting too early.

Choosing the Right Variety

There are three main types:

1. Black-eyed peas

Classic creamy pea with black eye
Fast-maturing
Great for fresh or dry harvest
Good starter variety: ‘California Blackeye No. 5’

2. Crowder peas

Peas crowded tightly in the pod
Rich, full flavor
Heavy producers
Top pick: ‘Mississippi Silver’

3. Cream peas

Small, pale peas with a mild flavor
Excellent for fresh eating
Reliable: ‘Zipper Cream’

Best Growing Conditions

Sun

Full sun: 8+ hours
Southern peas need heat for best flavor and pod set.

Soil

Well-drained
pH 6.0–7.0
Moderate fertility

These peas tolerate poorer soils better than most vegetables—just avoid waterlogging.

Soil Preparation (Experience Tip)

I work a light compost layer into the top 2–3 inches. Over-fertile soil leads to lush vines with fewer pods.

How to Plant Southern Peas

Direct Sowing

Southern peas do best when direct-sown.

Sow seeds 1 inch deep
Space plants 3–4 inches apart
Rows 18–24 inches apart

For Bush Types

Plant densely for a weed-suppressing canopy.

For Vining Types

Use a trellis or fence. Trellised peas stay cleaner and are easier to pick.

Caring for Southern Peas

Watering

Once established, Southern peas are not heavy water users.

Keep evenly moist until seedlings are 4–6 inches tall.
After that, water once a week or less.
Overwatering results in lush leaves—but fewer peas.

Experience note: In hot climates, I water deeply every 7–10 days and get excellent yields.

Feeding

Avoid nitrogen fertilizers. Southern peas make their own.

Feed only if soil is very poor:

Apply a balanced organic fertilizer lightly at planting.
No additional feeding is needed.

Weeding and Mulching

Because Southern peas grow quickly, they shade out most weeds.

Mulch lightly with straw or shredded leaves.
Keep the soil surface cool and moisture-stable in early summer.

Pests and Diseases

Common Pests

Aphids
Cowpea curculio (in the Southeast)
Spider mites in severe heat

Solutions:

Wash off aphids with water
Use row covers early if curculios are common
Keep plants evenly watered to reduce mite stress

Diseases

Root rot in wet soils
Powdery mildew late in the season

Southern peas are naturally resistant to most diseases.

Harvesting Southern Peas

When to Harvest Fresh (Green-Shell) Peas

Pick when pods are:

Plump
Still green
Seeds fully formed but not dry

This is the stage for classic “shell peas” used in Southern cooking.

When to Harvest Dry Peas

Let pods turn:

Tan
Brittle
Fully dry on the vine

Pick before heavy rain to avoid mold.

Frequency

Pick every 2–3 days to keep vines producing. Plants shut down if pods are left to dry too early in the summer.

Experience note: Regular picking can boost yields by 30–40% in my trials.

After the Harvest: Soil-Building Benefits

Southern peas leave behind nitrogen-rich root nodules.
After harvest, I chop the vines and leave them to compost in place or till lightly into the soil. This sets up the next crop with improved fertility—an excellent pre-crop for leafy greens or fall brassicas.