Planting one crop directly after another—lettuce after radishes, beans after spinach, squash after peas—is one of the greatest strengths of the no-till vegetable garden. Instead of starting over each season by turning the soil, you build on the soil biology, root channels, and structure created by the previous crop. This creates faster establishment, fewer weeds, better water infiltration, and higher fertility with less work. With the right method, you can go from harvest to replanting in minutes.

Table of Contents

1. Terminate the Previous Crop Correctly

Cut at Soil Level When Possible

For most vegetables—lettuce, spinach, brassicas, beans, peas, squash, tomatoes, peppers—simply cut the stems at the soil surface and leave the roots in place.

Benefits:

Roots decompose into organic matter
Mycorrhizal fungi remain intact
Existing root channels guide the next crop’s roots
Zero disturbance to soil life

Remove Roots Only When Necessary

Potatoes, garlic, onions, diseased plants, and aggressive perennials should be removed completely but gently—lifting the root mass without turning soil.

2. Add a Fresh Layer of Compost

Spread ½–1 inch of finished compost over the bed surface.
Do not mix it in.

This layer:

Recharges nutrients
Creates a clean seedbed
Adds organic matter
Feeds earthworms and microbes
Smooths the surface for planting

Successions are simplest when compost is always added on top, keeping soil layers intact.

3. Reapply Mulch Strategically

Pull existing mulch back into place or add new mulch so the bed is covered.

Keep mulch 2–4 inches deep between plants
Keep mulch light or very thin where you will sow seeds
For transplants, simply open a small hole in the mulch

Best mulches for successions:

Straw
Shredded leaves
Aged grass clippings
Compost mulch

Mulch protects soil life while keeping the bed weed-free between crops.

4. Plant Into the Compost Layer

This is the key to rapid succession without tillage.

For Transplants:

Move mulch aside
Part the compost layer with your hand
Insert the transplant into the firm soil below
Pull compost and mulch back around—but not against—the stem

For Direct Seeding:

Smooth the compost into a narrow seed row (2–4 inches wide)
Sow directly into the compost
Lightly cover seeds with more compost
Water gently

Compost makes an ideal seedbed and eliminates the need for soil disturbance.

5. Water Lightly to Set the New Crop

A gentle, even watering:

Settles the compost
Activates microbial life
Helps seeds adhere to the compost surface
Reduces transplant shock

Spray wands or fine shower nozzles work best for no-till successions.

6. Keep Crop Rotations Simple—but Realistic

While no-till encourages keeping roots in place, you can still rotate plant families. Good sequences include:

Roots → greens → roots
Legumes → fruiting crops
Greens → beans → squash
Peas → cucumbers or tomatoes
Garlic/onions → leafy greens

You don’t need perfect rotations—just avoid planting the same family in the same spot repeatedly if disease is a concern.

Why No-Till Successions Work So Well

Soil stays structured and aerated
Organic matter increases every season
Nutrient cycling becomes faster
Earthworms multiply
Mycorrhizal networks deepen
Beds warm faster in spring
You save hours of tilling, digging, and weeding

Every successive crop benefits from the work done by the previous one.

My Experience

After more than 30 years of year-round vegetable gardening in Sonoma Valley and the Central Valley—often planting as many as four crops in the same bed each year—I’ve learned a simple truth: the less I disturb the soil, the faster and healthier each successive crop grows. I’ve refined fast, reliable no-till succession methods used in both home gardens and demonstration beds. The steps in this post are the same ones I depend on season after season to keep beds productive without ever touching a tiller.