How to Plant Strawberries: Step-by-Step

Planting strawberries has become one of my favorite garden rituals each year. After years of trial and error—some seasons of juicy abundance, others of small fruit frustration—I’ve learned what works best, especially when it comes to timing, soil prep, and planting technique. Here’s what I would pass along to you — what you need to know, based on my experience and reliable horticultural best practices.

Table of Contents

1. Choose the Right Strawberry Type

Your planting time and method will depend heavily on your climate and the type of strawberry:

Everbearing Strawberries: Best for regions with cool or warm winters. Plant in spring for harvests in summer and autumn.
June-bearing Strawberries: Ideal for planting in late summer or autumn if you want a big harvest the following spring.

Personally, I love everbearing varieties for their prolonged yield—I get a nice, steady supply from midsummer into the fall.

2. Seeds vs. Starts or Bare-Root Crowns

If you’re eager for quicker results, skip the seeds and go for starts or bare-root crowns. Starts are widely available at garden centers. Starts are rooted and growing plants. They are a bit more expensie than crowns. Crowns are dormant root systems from last season’s plants, and they establish much faster. I switched to starts and crowns after struggling with spotty seed germination of seeds. These day I usually opt for starts.

3. Planting Distance and Depth

Whether you’re planting seeds, seedlings, or crowns:

Space them 12–14 inches (30–36 cm) apart.
Ensure the crown (where the leaves emerge) sits just above soil level—burying it can lead to rot.
Want larger, more vigorous plants? Plant on small hills. Strawberries grow to about 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) tall and spread about 12 inches (30 cm) wide.

4. Best Time to Plant

Timing depends on your USDA zone:

Cold winter zones (3–6): Plant in early spring.
Mild winter zones (7–10): Plant in spring, fall, or even late winter.

Avoid planting in the middle of a hot, dry spell—I’ve made that mistake, and the transplant shock was brutal.

5. Preparing the Planting Bed

Bed preparation is absolutely crucial when growing strawberries, as it sets the foundation for healthy root development, vigorous growth, and a productive harvest. Strawberries are sensitive to soil conditions and thrive best in loose, well-draining soil rich in organic matter. Before planting, it’s essential to remove all perennial weeds that could compete for nutrients and water. Incorporating aged compost or a high-quality organic planting mix boosts fertility and improves soil structure, while adjusting the soil pH to the ideal range of 5.5 to 6.5 ensures nutrient availability. Properly prepared raised beds or mounds also promote better drainage and earlier rooting, especially in spring, which significantly enhances the plant’s performance in the first year. Skipping this step often leads to stunted plants, poor yields, and increased vulnerability to pests and diseases.

Before planting:

Remove all perennial weeds thoroughly.
Work in aged compost or organic planting mix.
Aim for a soil pH of 5.5 to 6.5—I use a cheap soil test kit every season to make sure I’m on track.

Raised beds work wonders for me. I build mounds about 6 inches high and 24 inches wide, with 4 feet between rows to give plants space and encourage strong root growth.

Hill planted strawberries covered with protective mesh to keep birds away

6. Choose a Planting System

There are two ways or systems commonly used when growing strawberries: the matted row system and the hill system. The difference lies in how the plants are spaced and managed. The matted row system is typically used for June-bearing strawberries and emphasizes low maintenance by allowing the plants to send out runners freely, which root and form new plants, gradually filling in a wide planting bed. This creates a dense, self-renewing strawberry patch that requires minimal effort aside from occasional edging. In contrast, the hill system is preferred for everbearing or day-neutral varieties and involves planting strawberries in raised rows with staggered spacing while actively removing all runners. This method focuses the plant’s energy on producing fruit rather than spreading, leading to higher-quality berries and more controlled growth, ideal for gardeners looking for cleaner beds and consistent production.

Matted Row System (Low Maintenance)

Perfect for June-bearing strawberries:

Bed width: 18–24 inches.
Plant spacing: 1–2 feet in all directions.
Let runners spread and root freely—this creates a self-sustaining patch.
I mow the edges to stop them from invading my pathways.

This is my go-to for a no-fuss harvest.

Hill System (More Control)

Best for everbearing and day-neutral strawberries:

Use double, raised rows, spaced 18 inches apart.
Plant ever-bearers 12 inches apart, day-neutrals 7 inches apart, in a zig-zag pattern.
Pinch off runners to focus energy on fruiting.

I find this method gives me better control over fruit size and plant health, especially in smaller beds.

Related Posts:

🌱 Getting Started with Strawberries

🍓 Choosing Strawberry Varieties

🪴 Growing Techniques & Care

🌞🌨️ Growing by Climate & Season